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Mail: contact@altiplanet.fr

Tel: +33 (0)6 82 37 03 37

Indian Creek et Zion

One month living in a van, climbing and discovering the Utah. It was a great experience to climb in Indian creek and Zion. Here are some tips if you plan to travel there. 


Applications to download: 

- "Mountain project", then download Moab area and Zion. You will find some good informations about how many cams you need for a route. 

- "Maps me" (great off line road maps)

Fisher Tower escalade

Vincent Oliva at the top of the very nice and classic Ancien art on Fisher Tower. 

I. Moab area  (Castelton valley / Fisher tower) 

Strategic places in Moab:

plan moab grimpeur

Climbing area:

- Fisher towers: Ancien Art (You can sleep at the parking) 

- Castelton tower (You can sleep at the parking)

CAstelton tower


II. Indian Creek:

anunaki

Renaud dans Anunaki 5.12


Where to sleep:

There are 3 big campsites wear you can sleep and leave your tent during the day. (Super bowl / Creek Pasture / Cottonwood)


Climbing gear: 

 - a rope of 100 m (80 works also) for sport climbing and 2x50 for the multi pitch routes

- 2 set of cams per person 

- Crack gloves + a lot of strap. 

 - Large rock climbing shoes (The local climber mainly use the Mocassym 5.10 or the Caldwel la sportiva.) 

Sinestra

Sinestra 5.11****


way rambo

Way rambo 5.12


Cool Areas:  (as much as I can say...)

- Supercrack Buttress: routes: The incredible hand Crack 5.10 / Supercrack 5.10

- Scarface wall: routes: Scarface 5.11- / Torque Wrench 5.11 (at the roof go on the right!!!)

- Réservoir wall: route: Pente 5.11

- 4×4: very good when the weather is warm. Routes: 4x4 5.11 / Unamed n°18 5.11+

- Optimator, a lot of easy routes, good the first day. take the road is bad. Anunaki 5.12 "overhanging euro style"

- Sparks: Go Spark Go 511+

- Cat Wall: one of the biggest area of indian creek, mostly sunny: routes: supercat of the desert 5.12 / King Cat 5.11+ (crazy hand crack roof!) / Jonny Cat 5.11+

- Original Meat wall: Sinestra 5.11 (2 crack and an impressive movement to from one to the other ;-)

- Sacred Cow: 5.12  amazing finish!

- Rrambo Wall, routes: way rambo 5.12-  amazing red and green crack!

- Sinestra (meet wall) 5.11 

Sacred cow

Sacred cow 5.12


Cool tower: North 6 shooters (Lightning bolt crack) amazing view at the top!


III. Kolob: 

Kolob

Amazing place in order to climb on bolt with "good" holds. It's perfect in order to take a break with crack climbing. Every routes are about the same... but all of it are gorgeous! Importante: You'll need a list a 80m rope.

How to find it:

Kolob canyon

Kolob canyon


IV. Zion:

Zion

Marjo dans Shunes butress

Parking place:

Zion

Nice routes in Zion national park: 

- Shunes buttress

- Monkey Finger


Some more tips:

Period: April is apparently very good. we have been too warm and too cold.



Make american Breakfasts with eggs and bacon:



Make good Crack gloves and have fun!

Crack gloves

Simon DUVERNEY   /   87 Grande Rue 38700 la Tronche   /   tel: 0033 (0)6 82 37 03 37   /   simonduverney@gmail.com